I. Amerl: Makassar Inside

Makassar(HM). The Capital of South Sulawesi, has once again returned to its original name - Makassar. And what's in a name? Well, this one definitely cannot leave you cold... A name which conjures up images of lonely perahus sailing around the archipelago and beyond, undeterred and breathtaking in their simple elegance; of Bugis pirates and mystical lands from long ago where the scent of the spice trade is as strong as the tales of black magic; and yes, a city of very direct ways, straight swords carried upfront for all to see and recognize... but a welcoming city nonetheless, lazily stretched out on a beach yet leaning towards the lush hills to the east. Perhaps the bustle of modern living hasn't left everything unspoilt; previously virgin beaches, still fringed with coconut palms if not as abundantly, are now a home to sailors and hawkers alike. But if tasting local delicacies and freshly caught fish down the main stretch of this curious port town isn't quite your thing, don't despair. The area can still surprise you with some attractive beaches and seascapes. Just south of the city lies a black sand beach called Tanjung Bunga. More relaxing in the past when it didn't boast a modern foodcourt, playground and pier (and super clean bathrooms!) it's still a nice place for a leisurely stroll in the morning or on weekdays - it can get a little crowded on the weekend when Makassar youth eagerly sets up nets for beach volleyball, football or badminton and everyone else just enjoys the views (whether of young bodies in play or sailing ships in the distance, one never knows). Though I prefer to watch, everyone is welcome to join in the fun and games. There is a very casual atmosphere here, and a very good feeling in the air (which is still unharmed by fumes from Makassar traffic). Likewise, any westerners who have attempted a peaceful walk on the beaches of Java for example, you'll be most pleasantly surprised at the lack of attention you'll attract here. No endless posing for cameras here - not unless you yourself ask for it. In fact, people are just too busy having fun, playing sports or swooning their sweethearts to really pay too much attention to what you might be doing. And if even that doesn't satisfy your need to get away from it all, walk past the colorful ices and people splashing around, doing their best seal impersonations with innertubes and beach balls; past the young couples shyly holding hands and further still to where you may sit on some drift wood and, looking out to the sinking crimson sun, dream what it was like to be here, fishing in peace or sailing away, centuries ago.